Despite the regular maintenance that you bring to your dishwasher, a breakdown is always possible. This does not necessarily mean that your device is at the end of its life (it should last between 7 and 10 years or so), nor does it mean that you have to call a repairman. Take the time to identify the problem; most faults are easily repairable. To help you identify its cause, here are the 10 most common dishwasher failures.
1 – The machine does not fill: no water supply
Check that the water inlet tap is correctly open and that the water circulates normally in the house. If everything is normal, here are the possible causes of a filling problem:
- The water inlet pipe is clogged. If it is too dirty or blocked by an object, the water no longer comes to the dishwasher.
- solenoid valve is in question. Its filter is simply clogged; the water supply is cut off. Just clean it. But if the solenoid valve itself is broken, it will have to be changed.
- The electronic card malfunctions and prevents water from entering.
- A security triggered due to a water leak. We need to find the leak…
2 – The dishwasher no longer turns on
What’s going on ? The machine won’t even start…
- Check food. Is the electrical connection correct? Also check the water supply.
- The switch does not work anymore. If it is HS, it is impossible to start a washing cycle. Fortunately, replacing it is usually quite simple.
- The security lock of the door is in question. It is used to keep the dishwasher door closed during washing. It may simply be blocked, which prevents the door from closing and therefore the dishwasher from starting. If it’s broken, all you have to do is change it. With a defective lock, it happens that the dishwasher starts but stops during the cycle. When a door is not closed properly, the hinges are sometimes shifted; put them back in place.
- The electronic card feels bad. It happens that it triggers a safety device for an imaginary breakdown… The easiest way is to reset the machine to factory mode. Then you will know if there really is a problem.
3 – It starts but… it trips!
If your machine freaks out the house, it’s a safe bet that the breakdown comes from the heating resistor or power cable. You can test their operation using a multimeter. Set it to the Ohmmeter or Continuity position and test the power cable. If the test does not indicate continuity, test the heater resistor. It will probably need to be replaced if it is faulty.
4 – Flashing or error code: red alert!
Do you have a modern dishwasher? The advantage is that it tells you the problems itself by displaying a fault code on his screen. It’s up to you to find the translation of the code (a series of numbers and letters) by consulting the instructions or the manufacturer’s website.
As already mentioned, sometimes the displayed codes are fanciful and do not indicate any real failure. A bug has been there… To get to the bottom of it, start with reset the dishwasher in factory mode. The system resets and clears all false messages.
If these are blinkers which light up, it is better to know what they correspond to:
- The light of faucet flashes to indicate a water supply failure. Go back to the first paragraph (and don’t go back to square one)… You will have to find the cause: water inlet or discharge pipes, drain pump or drain filter.
- LEDs rinsing et sel are triggered when the water is too hard. Now is the time to put special dishwasher salt back into the water softener. If the signal persists, call a serviceman.
5 – The dishwasher no longer heats the water
Either it heats badly, or it no longer heats at all and the water stays cold. Not great for washing dishes. What element is in question?
- And pipe is clogged.
- The drain filter is clogged.
- The sin temperature or résistance heating are to be tested.
- The pressure switch is broken, or the thermostator even the electronic card (still her).
In fact, the most frequently changed technical part, all dishwashers combined, is the résistance (or immersion heater). This heating element regulates the water temperature according to the program in progress. Generally submerged (or thermo-immersed), the resistance is sometimes installed under the washing hood, in the form of a tube called a “heating tunnel”. Its main problem is the gradual deposit of limestone. Little by little, the resistance thus loses its effectiveness.
6 – It no longer drains!
The water no longer drains and remains at the bottom of the machine. To locate the cause of this drain failure, suspect the drain pipe, the drain filter or the drain pump…
- The Drain pipe is clogged. Residues have accumulated and the water is no longer flowing. Take it apart and clean it.
- The drain filter is clogged or even clogged. Forgot to clean it recently? This is an area that gets dirty quickly; be sure to clean the filter regularly.
- The hose the drain pump is clogged. To clean.
- The drain pump is it running out? If everything that has just been mentioned works well, the pump is certainly at fault. An HS pump prevents emptying from taking place. The problem is identified by the noise it makes during the drain cycle. Other symptoms are a slight leak from the dishwasher and a problem starting. Check the pump and if necessary, change it.
7 – The machine does not rinse or dry…
Are your dishes still soaked when they come out of the dishwasher?
- The wash arm do not spin properly. They are clogged, or something may be blocking them; check their position and that of the basket…
- The drain filter is clogged.
- The washing product not suitable or is incorrectly dosed.
8 – The dishes are really badly washed!
Or not washed at all! What is the reason ?
- Check the water inletit may be closed or something is blocking the water supply.
- The wash arm (the propellers, you see?) are clogged – finally, the small dispersion holes… Take them apart and clean their holes properly. Knowing that it is the part most often changed, check their condition. The arms may be damaged and no longer work properly.
- The cutlery basket is sometimes the cause, if it interferes with the movement of the wash arms. Check to see if it is misplaced or damaged. If it is broken, change it without hesitation. Also check the casters of the basket; often damaged, they can block the basket.
- The water does not heat. Go back to point #5… The resistance is not in great shape.
- The circulation pump is blocked. This happens when the filters are poorly maintained. Clean thoroughly. If the pump is damaged, you must replace it. It is signaled by a particular snoring.
- The program selector is failing. If the switch no longer works, the washing cycles can become anarchic. Washing is not done properly. If worn, replace it.
9 – Heavens, the dishwasher has a leak!
But where does it come from? Here are the different possible causes:
- Remove the dishwasher from its built-in and begin by examining the pipesthem hosesthem jointsin short everything that can leak.
- The drain water pipe is dirty, incorrectly installed, worn, or even cut? And it leaks.
- The door seal has a leak. Clean or change the gasket, depending on its condition. To prevent it from wearing out too quickly, clean it once a month with white vinegar.
- Check the loading : if it is overfilled or the dishes are poorly organized, it may cause an overflow.
- Too much detergent ! Take a look in the detergent tank. If there’s any left in the bottom, it’s because it’s been dosed too much. This clogs the pipes and can eventually cause a leak.
- Check the installation of plumbing. If it is not completely up to standard, a leak may appear in the pipe.
10 – The dishes are white or not dry
Whitish lenses are not inevitable. This is not really a failure, but it reveals a problem of use.
- The salt box is empty. Regenerating salt is used to remove traces of limescale. If there are no more, your dishes no longer shine.
- The product detergent is overdosed. It leaves traces on the dishes and clogs the dishwasher. Respect the dosages indicated.
If the dishes are clean but not dry, there is probably an explanation.
- You forgot the cleaning liquid. It promotes the drying of dishes. Without it, water droplets remain on the dishes.
- Problem of résistance of heating. If it did not raise the temperature when drying, the resistance is probably faulty.
- There is a problem of thermostat or If the thermostat no longer works, the water remains cold, the dishwasher does not reach the temperature required for drying. Test it and replace it if necessary.
Remember: Before attempting any troubleshooting or repairs, be sure to turn off the power. Disconnect the power plug and put on gloves to protect yourself from detergents.