If plastic is omnipresent in our lives, materials qualified as noble, such as wood, are also very present in our interiors. Wood is also a living matter because it expands and contracts depending on the humidity and temperature of its environment. The magnitude of these variations depends on the type of wood used and the treatment applied to the object. As wood left bare, without treatment, is less resistant to the passage of time, a coating, even transparent, is therefore necessary to extend its lifetime.
The different wood protections
The varnishes, oils and waxes are coatings that protect, while modifying very little, if at all, the initial appearance of the wood. These products are preferred for wood species with a beautiful appearance. The lasures make it possible to exploit the texture of the wood, while bringing color to it. A covering paintit will make the material effect disappear.
As contemporary trends in decoration value the color, it is common to find articles or tutorials that invite you to repaint a piece of furniture found in a flea market, a staircase that lacks modernity, or even the parquet floor of a room whose atmosphere you would like to change… Opportunities to paint wooden elements are therefore not lacking! But, isn’t that a lot of work?
Painting on raw wood: is it necessary to sand?
If you want to paint a raw wood surface, you may have read that you have to carry out a certain number of operations before applying the paint itself: degreasing, sanding, possible filling, cleaning. the role of sanding on a raw wood is to get a flawless finish by reducing scratches, blows or splinters of wood. If you like objects that display their life, then this step is not necessary.
But before painting raw wood, it is recommended to apply at least one pore filler varnish. This product is intended to fill the fibers of the wood to make them less absorbent: you thus reduce the quantity of paint necessary to obtain the desired result and achieve some savings. Generally, the pore-sealing varnish can be covered with acrylic, vinyl, alkyd or glycerophthalic paint.
But in any case, always read the manuals or, once you have chosen your products, ask the opinion of a seller to make sure of their compatibility between them.
Painting over previously painted wood
The prospect of sanding a previously painted wooden surface puts you off, whether for fear of dust or out of discouragement in the face of the size of the surface to be treated? Indeed, sanding increases the time spent. While stripping can solve the dust issue, it will not solve the time issue.
You then wonder if it is possible to paint directly on previously painted wood, without sanding. Well fortunately, yes! Provided the surface is in good condition. If it has too many scales or the varnish is chipping, it’s a bad idea.
Without considering a real sanding, the so-called operation ofginning will promote the success of your project. This involves going over the surface with fairly coarse grit sandpaper to get rid of any scales, scratch the surface of the paint to be covered, and thus facilitate the adhesion of the future coat of paint. It will produce very little dust.
Ensuite, wash the surface. If it is a piece of furniture, the paint itself may have been covered with a product such as wax, which must absolutely be removed. The most effective product for this step is detergent based on soda crystals which will rid the surface of all substances that may interfere with the application of the paint, including greasy substances.
Keep in mind that you are working on a wooden surface that absorbs moisture. Also, limit water intake as much as possible. And let time surface be sure before painting it.
What type of paint for already painted wood?
The first question to ask concerns theusage of the surface you wish to repaint.
If it is a parquet floor or a staircase, you will have to turn to “floor” type paints which resist the repetitive friction of the feet, even the passage of the heels.
If you plan to repaint a piece of furniture, will it be likely to come into contact with humidity? If so, you’ll need to look to water-resistant paints, or consider a protective varnish, in addition to the paint.
The second question to ask concerns l’aspect. A matte paint hides the defects of the support well. With a velvety or even chalky appearance, it brings a note of sobriety. However, these paints are generally less resistant to shocks and stains. A satin paint partly camouflages the defects of the support, while bringing depth to the surface, as well as a silky aspect. A gloss paint brings out all the defects and irregularities of the support, but well done, it brings a touch of elegance.
The third question to ask concerns the kind of paint that the support already painted can receive. To answer this, a test is necessary. You can use pot funds left over from previous projects. It is a question of observing how the medium behaves.
If the tested paint deposits normally and, after drying, remains adherent, you can choose the same kind of paint. Just check that it is compatible with the use you are planning: if a washable paint for walls can be considered for repainting furniture, it will not be for a floor.
If, on the other hand, the paint tested does not hold well after complete drying, or if the installation itself is problematic because the film does not settle, does not cover the surface, it is that it is not enough ” greasy” compared to that of your support. Your test paint is probably water-based and you will need to choose a solvent-based paint.
By choosing a multi-support renovation paintyou will have little chance of going wrong because the notices indicate good resistance to water and grease, which makes it suitable for painting both kitchen and bathroom furniture.
As for the stairs, a floor paint of epoxy type will also avoid you any error. On the other hand, you will have to make sure that you can ventilate your room widely and for several days because these are generally strongly fragrant paints.
Last point to guide you in choosing your paint: some paints are more suitable for laying on a vertical or horizontal surface. Depending on what you have to paint and the possibilities of organizing your work plan, think about it!