Washing machines and dishwashers are valuable life aids, present in most homes. The manufacturing techniques, perfectly mastered, ensure these devices, a quality service, a great reliability and a good longevity. Nonetheless, it isautomates, susceptible to accidental breakdowns. The hydraulic circuits, comprising flexible pipes and materials sensitive to agingweakened by contact with aggressive products or through improper use, may cause unpleasant malfunctions.
Fortunately, their repair is, in most cases, well within the reach of a handyman careful and attentive.
Identifying the source of washing machine leaks
The detection of the origin of a leak represents the major difficulty, but crucial for a lasting solution to the problem. It should be taken into account, the least oozing from its first appearance, because the unpredictable aggravation of the phenomenon constitutes the main risk factorfor the machine or for the goods and of dangers for the individuals.
The periodicity of the leak gives an important indication of its origin
A leak observed during the washing cycle alone clearly indicates the involvement of an element of the internal circuit of the appliance, during the filling or emptying phases. A leak in the tank or an excessive load can also be incriminated.
When, on the contrary, the leak is constant, it is advisable to check the integrity of the supply pipe or the tightness of the fittings, up to the closing solenoid valve.
Drainage on the rear face of washing machines or dishes
A leak on the rear face of a water pressure device requires a support without delaybecause potentially generating significant water damage in your place of life or that of the neighborhood, especially on the lower floors. Same in case of leakage minimumseeming to come from the rear, it should be close immediately, tap insulation of the equipment concerned.
These leaks are always located downstream or upstream of the washing device.
1 – The failures, of the flexible supply pipe, attributable to the fittings
They are definitely resolved by replacing the seals and do not present any danger. On the other hand, leaks related to the structure of the pipe can be really devastating. A rupture releases cubic meters of water in record time, so if the slightest doubt about the integrity of the hose remains (seepage at crimps or cracks), it is advisable to do not use anymore at the machine before replacement of the pipe.
2 – Backflow through the drain
These leaks usually come from:
- from faulty fixing of the hose drain on the drain pipe fixed to the wall,
- of one elbow of the wall evacuation circuit located too close to the gooseneck drain,
- of the’shutter from siphon or pipingevacuation.
A simple repositioning or cleaning is enough to solve the problem. If the leak comes from the flexible piping, it must be replaced.
Leaks on the front of washing machines
The leaks visible on the front of the machine have 2 origins:
1 – Le joint de hublot frontal.
Check, in first intention, that no object has intervened in between the joint and the porthole. When this is the case, there is usually no damage and remove the intruder definitely solves the problem.
Extremely rare, the joint canto tear out of the tank body, during the forced extraction of a heavy and/or bulky piece of textile. This muscular manipulation rarely calls into question the integrity of the joint. Simply clip it back onto the tank, taking care to secure it correctly and without pinchingthe continuity of the nest.
Finally, the window seal can be cut, worn, hardened or cracked over time. It should therefore be replace. muni of the marque of the device, model reference a you serial number, engraved on the identification plate, a local distributor of spare parts for household appliances will know how to find the right seal, in a jungle of models and variants, impossible to distinguish with the naked eye. This professional offers the virtual certainty of avoiding unpleasant surprises. Replacing the front window seal is within everyone’s reach:
- Snatch the old tank seal, by pulling around its edge.
- Coat the groove of the new washing-up liquid gasket, to facilitate assembly.
- clip the groove of the new seal in the housing provided on the tank.
This operation is done exclusively by hand. A microfiber cloth limits slipping. Do not use pliers, screwdrivers or other aggressive instruments, otherwise the new seal will be damaged beyond repair. Some brands detail this process in their user manual.
2 – The detergent and product drawer
This accessory must be disassembled and cleaned upall the 2 months, about. This precaution guards against the risk of overflows caused by the accumulation and hardening of detergents in the sprinkler or the connecting tube with the tank. This frontal leak is not jamais caused by a leak in this hosebecause the flow of water would be observed sous the machine. Procedure:
- open the drawer to the stop,
- slightly lift (without forcing) the front part. The drawer should pull out effortlessly. Some appliances have a screw-on stopper that is clearly visible when the drawer is open.
Drips on the front of dishwashers
Dishwasher doors are fitted with peripheral seals. The upper seals, generally clipped, are easily replaced. The lower gasket is sandwiched between the interior facing and the door body on the one hand and tightened on a rod screwed to the body of the tank on the other hand. It is rare to have to replace these seals, but regular degreasing is essential.
Puddles under washing machines and dishwashers
The presence of a puddle of water under the device, with no trace of flow on the faces, reveals an internal leak. This is most often a faulty or disconnected flexible hose. Locating visually (or by touch by passing the fingers along the pipes), requires the dismantling of the upper plate, then of the rear face of the device. The flexible hoses are easily recognizable by the spring-loaded fixing collars, provided with 2 tabs, in relief, close to the outside. Once the fault has been identified, the hose must be repositioned or replaced as follows:
- loosen the collar by exerting pressure so as to bring the tabs together, using flat pliers,
- The pressure on the hard tube thus removed, disengage the hose by printing slight alternating rotational movements,
- Replace the clamps on the new hose, then repeat the operation in reverse.
A concentrated puddle sous at the machine near the frontis a sign of defectiveness of the dump pump, always located in the lower part. You can’t fix a leaky pump. To replace it, tilt the machine backwards (never on the sides, which are more fragile), in order to access the 2 or 3 fixing screws. The flexible pipes are separated according to the usual procedure.
In the presence of old equipment, it is prudent to check and possibly replace, as long as the site is open, the condition of all the flexible hoses. Before any intervention, be sure to unplug the electrical outlet from the machine.