Pour promote recovery of plants like rosesthem trees et shrubs with bare roots, some vegetable plants, it may be necessary to perform a technique called root dressing. Let’s see together what exactly it consists of, what is the advantage of resorting to this operation and how to avoid the inconveniences. Let’s also find out in which cases root dressing is essential, what technique is used and at the same time let’s tackle the question of root dressing which must follow dressing.
Root dressing: principle
It’s about a root system pruning technique plants intended to ensure recovery after planting. The plants concerned are generally those marketed with bare roots, and having undergone some damage at their roots during theuprooting by nurserymen despite all the care that these professionals bring to the plants. Damage is often caused by the tools used to uproot the plants. We then observe different injuries in their root system.
If these plants are replanted as they are, their recovery is seriously compromised. It is therefore essential to make a very specific cut of the roots or dressing. Note that this is also useful for many vegetable plants whose roots are also dressed because they are damaged. It can be, for example, cabbage, asparagus, lettuce or even leeks.
Root dressing: advantages and disadvantages
Dressing the roots to remove those that are damaged, diseased, dead, frail or on the contrary oversized, offers undeniable advantages.
- Makes planting easier since root volume is somewhat reduced,
- Exempts the gardener from folding overly long roots at the bottom of the planting hole (which is not desirable),
- Avoids the formation of a root bun which could subsequently weaken the plant,
- Induces the production of a root hair of good density because the plant is stimulated,
- Increases chances of retakes
- Removes all injured roots, which prevents the risk of cryptogamic diseases due to the formation of pathogenic fungi in injured roots.
It can, however, be noted some drawbacksnotably if you cut too generously the roots of the plants concerned.
- Harmful for all plants whose root system is perfectly healthy and balanced, if it has no damaged, diseased, too long or frail roots,
- Considerably reduces the chances of recovery if the gardener has too heavy a hand at the level of the root hairs or if he cuts the end of the rootlets.
The moderation is the operative word in the field of root dressing. Let’s not forget that they are the ones that store nutrients and energy without which plants cannot grow or stay healthy. Care must therefore be taken not to shorten the root hairs too much or remove the ends of the rootlets.
So that the dressing of the roots of the plants to be set up is carried out according to the rules of the art, do not hesitate to entrust this delicate task to a landscaper.
Root Dressing: Process
Root dressing should be done between November and Marchwhen plants are dormant, i.e. during the vegetative rest phase. It is during this period of the year that we get down to planting bare-root plants.
Much care is taken in this technique and it is essential to use a shears perfectly sharpened, whose blades have been disinfected beforehand. It is also strongly recommended to wear gardening gloves. Then remains to:
- Balance the root system by reducing the size of disproportionate roots, ideally all roots should be the same length.
- Shorten the rootlets by only a few millimeters only if necessary, which will quickly have the effect of boosting their branching.
Follow the dressing of the roots with a praline
Once the dressing of the roots of the rosebushes, trees or shrubs has been carried out, it is advisable to move on to pralination. It consists of coat the weakened bare roots with a praline so that they are both good protected and perfectly hydrated, which is absolutely essential for the recovery to be assured. The praline greatly promotes the healing of roots that have been cut during dressing. It also boosts the production of new roots and also prevents the formation of an air pocket between the roots and the earth with which the potet is filled (that is to say the planting hole).
Ideally, the praline consists ofeauwell-ripened compost or even better cow dungof fine soil of molehills and a bit of lait. A stick is then used to homogenize the mixture. The goal is to obtain a consistency close to mud because the praline must be able to stick to the roots after 24 hour soak. Once this period is over, we do not wait to plant.