Washing machine failure: how to identify the problem?

It’s the tile, the washing machine is broken. Should it be changed? Rest assured, most of the time the breakdown is easily repaired. It is still necessary to know how to identify the cause… No need to be a specialist to succeed in the diagnosis. When you know the causes of possible breakdowns, it is easier to know if you can repair it yourself, call a repairman or change the washing machine.

Check the fault code

If your washing machine is quite recent, it is equipped with an LCD screen on which you can consult the information indicating the cause of the breakdown: the error code. In fact, you will mainly see a series of letters and numbers appear, the translation of which will have to be found in the instructions or on the web… Our washing machines do not yet know how to speak in everyday language. Once you have the diagnosis indicated by the washing machine itself, the rest is straightforward. But sometimes the screen shows no error code. Not to mention older machines that don’t have a screen. So many reasons to know how to spot the different causes of breakdown yourself.

Starting problem

The machine does not start. Or it starts… but blows the circuit breaker! What’s going on ?

The washing machine refuses to start

  • It doesn’t even turn on? It may be a problem ofpower supply. Check that the power is not cut off. If the power supply works, check the condition of the plug and the cable.
  • A problem internal electrical : all you need is a cut or oxidized wire inside…
  • The porte (or the porthole) is it properly closed? If not, security prevents it from starting.
  • Check the water inlet. Are the hose and faucet to blame? If all is well on this side, the solenoid valve should be suspected.
  • Problem electronic. An element may be faulty: the On/Off button, the electronic card, the resistor? Or the engine that failed…
  • Does your washing machine have a child safety ? As long as it is activated, it does not start.
  • A departure deferred would it have been activated?

It starts, but it trips!

  • The electrical network is overloaded. Other devices are working at the same time, you lack power compared to your needs… Disconnect another device to check if the problem persists.
  • Problem of résistance. It is often the washing resistance (the immersion heater) or drying (if your machine also dries) that is faulty. Perhaps simply clogged with limestone or damaged by an object…
  • Whatever the electrical origin of the problem (resistor, cable, solenoid valve, capacitor, drain pump, etc.), you can locate it by testing each element. Turn off the power, unplug the suspect connector or cable, reconnect the power. As long as it keeps tripping up, you haven’t found the culprit yet.
  • A leak – even small – on an electrical element puts the system in safety.

Water filling problem

  • The machine struggles to fill. the water inlet tap is it properly opened? the pipe would it not be bent? If the water supply is working, the filling problem may come from the solenoid valve, to clean or to change. Also remember to check the debit ; it could just be a pressure issue.
  • If the filling is not done correctly, too much or not enough, and the solenoid valve has been cleared…? Well, it remains to suspect the it goes around the pressostatinside which there is a tube and an bedroom compression. The first can be damaged, the second bite. Check both. Also think about the hose of the pressure switch, sometimes dislocated following a move.
  • If everything just suspected is ruled out, the culprit is probably the pressure switch himself. He is the great water regulator of the machine. It will have to be tested with a multimeter after having disconnected everything (unless you have an electronic pressure switch). And maybe change it.

Water heating problem

The water stays cold, it heats up too much or not enough… And your laundry suffers the consequences. Different elements can be involved:

  • The résistance, or immersion heater. If the water remains cold regardless of the program, the resistance no longer responds! It is tested using a multimeter (in Ohmmeter position), after having unplugged the washing machine and disconnected the resistor cables. Normal value: 20-30 Ohms.
  • The resistor cables. If it’s not the resistor, it may be its wiring. A cut or oxidation could raise suspicion of a leak, which could have caused damage to the electronic board…
  • The thermostat, or klixon. It is he who regulates the temperature of the resistance, if you have one because recent devices have replaced it with a probe. You can test the klixon to check its operation. Normal average value: 20 KOmhs.

Abnormal noise problem

A washing machine always makes too much noise… But if yours makes more noise than usual, it has a problem. Your mission, if you accept it, is to pay attention to what kind of noise and when it occurs during the wash cycle.

During washing?

  • Your washing machine new makes a racket. Have you forgotten to remove the elements intended to block the drum during transport? Check the leaflet.
  • The washing machine makes noise while moving: it is badly set.
  • It is well wedged but still makes noise? Maybe you have it overloaded. If the noise is a clack-clack, maybe it’s a small object which hits the wall of the drum. Like a coin for example.

During spinning?

  • The bearings drum are worn or rubbing. The drum is unstable and hits the walls. You can easily check if this is the case by rotating the drum by hand. Does he resist? Worn bearings can be changed easily.
  • The shock absorbers are worn out. Again, it is better to change them.

During emptying?

A noise at this stage of the cycle indicates a problem with pump. See if the filter needs cleaning or if something is stuck in the pump. It’s easy to clean. But if the pump is HS, it must be changed.

drum problem

The drum no longer spins. There are several possible explanations:

  • The pulley does not work anymore ;
  • The bearings are damaged;
  • The belt is loose, broken or off its axis.

If the drum is involved, your laundry may come out of the machine wet but not washed.

Drain problem

Ouch, your washing machine is no longer draining! Investigate to find the cause:

  • The filtered drain clogged? Unless something is stuck in it. If it’s clogged, it won’t drain.
  • The pipe drain bent, jammed or clogged? Check its position. If necessary use a ferret to unclog it.
  • The turbine of the pump may be obstructed by something.
  • The pump is it in good condition? Try manually rotating the pump vane. If it does not turn, you can buy a pump.
  • L’ « Rinse hold » would it not have been triggered by mistake? It happens to everyone…

Spin problem

Spinning is not done. Let’s see the reasons…

  • And at emptying is not done, neither is the spinning. See previous paragraph.
  • The machine is too loaded. Thanks to its detector, a modern washing machine can decide to cancel the spin if the tub is too full or the laundry has curled up.
  • The machine is not not loaded enough. Yes, it is also possible that the imbalance caused by a barely filled tank decides the machine to stop spinning.
  • We also suspect the drum not to turn well. To check.
  • The coals of the motor, responsible for giving energy to the motor at the time of spinning, are worn.
  • The pressure switch does not work anymore. As it regulates the amount of water for the spin, it’s a shame.
  • The electronic card does not work well. It’s a pretty rare failure, but you never know.
  • Also check that the Rinse hold» is not activated…

Water leak problem

A leak is not necessarily serious, but it can cause several malfunctions. Might as well try to find the cause quickly.

Leak during washing

  • And joint has lost its seal (porthole, tap, pipe, etc.); change all worn seals.
  • The machine is too full or incorrectly set.
  • The product tray is dirty; empty it and clean it thoroughly.

Leak during draining or spinning

  • The pump drain is damaged. Its filter or the drain hose may be incorrectly positioned.
  • Evacuation gets hurt. It is possible that the water does not come from a leak but from a blockage during the evacuation.

Continuous leak

  • If the leak is permanent and is at the rear of the machine or below, the leak should be checked. tank and the bearings of the drum (ratatam!!!). A hole in the tank, it can happen. As for the bearings, check their tightness.
  • Is the leak coming from the front? Investigate on the side of hublot or product tray. It is possible that the porthole is no longer watertight or that the container is too full. Sometimes we are too generous on the detergent; it foams, it foams and it overflows!

Window or door problem

The porthole refuses to open. This is a problem that is not without solutions:

  • Patience, the programme is not finished…
  • The security of the door is faulty. It may also be a security blockage, which indicates a problem somewhere…
  • After one emptying missed and the laundry temperature is too high, the door remains locked.
  • Security children is activated.

Laundry cleanliness problem

Some problems lead to a lack of cleanliness of the linen. This may come from a faulty stage in the cycle, in particular the emptying. But poorly maintained elements can affect the washing quality: the drum, the door seal, the pump filter, etc. Remember to regularly clean these essential elements for the proper functioning of your washing machine. This will avoid some small breakdowns.

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